Now we can hear the problem, the stock shock is used, and really does not like launching my 250lb 6 foot frame over these jumps. It's landing so hard that the muffler seam hit the swingarm and cut off the plastic guide for the brake line! Something is going to have to be done about this! You can tell how low the bike is riding here on the stock setup.
I went up to Royal Distributing in Innisfil looking for some gear during their red tag tent sale event, and while lofting my front tire in the air, observed that the exhaust had changed it's note and was making more noise, but upon inspection I couldn't find a problem, and the bike seemed to run fine, so I made the mistake of ignoring it and taking the bike for a ride up to Minden with friends the following day.
|This is what happens when the exhaust weld breaks and you don't catch it in time.|
Subject: Airbox repair
Sent: May 11, 2009 11:54
I spoke to Gilligan (real name Jeff) and he said he could repair it while u wait. It won't be pretty but it will be functional. It's under the tank so no matter IMHO. You can call him directly at 416-123-1234. Tell him Wobblycat sent you, haha!
He's working on painting an R6 right now so he probably won't be able to work on it until Wednesday night. BTW, he does this on the side after his regular job (doing custom work on porches and mercedes).
BTW, thanks for the invite yesterday, I had a lot of fun.
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
Phase 2 of burning a valve...
I joined in on a ride to Killarney Ontario which google maps puts as 781 kilometres round trip, and 10 hours and forty two minutes.
Yep, it was a very long day on the bike, and when I heard exhaust noise and rattling coming from the head I checked it at a fuel stop to find that one of the cap fasteners had fallen off of the flange that bolts the front pipe onto the head. Now that flange was dangling on one side and I'd a leak between the head and front pipe. I still had another three hundred kilometres to get home at highway speeds, and the although I replaced the copper gasket and the nut on the flange, the bike never ran correctly again. From what I understand, the valve was running hotter than designed with lean stock jetting, and a lack of restrictive back pressure allowed it to run with more air and less fuel which resulted in the burnt valve. I now run on the rich side with a KLX needle in the KLR carburettor, so not only does the bike pull stronger, it protects it ever so slightly.
What does a burnt valve feel like?
That being said, what I experienced with that burnt valve was a loss of engine braking, as in comparison to my friend's 2001 KLR with only around 27,000 kilometres on the clock, when I rolled off on his bike, I felt like I was applying a brake. When you roll off on my bike, you'd best be on the brakes before the verge rushes up at you all too fast. I lost power, perhaps in the 20% range, but I attributed that to the loss of back pressure and kept on riding. In addition, I'm a pretty cheap bugger and have been tossing around the idea of a new bike, so selling a high mileage KLR that's never been dropped (Hahahahaha!) wouldn't get me much, in fact I'd probably do better selling the farkles one at a time, so instead of buying a new bike, I decided to pony up for the 685 kit, and get the head seen to prior to next riding season.