DPower remote cartridge stove

I've been watching the BikerBits YouTube channel, and found some great advice in his "Shit Easy Motorcycle Camp Cooking" videos, and decided that I needed to add a gas stove to my collection, but wanted to do it as inexpensively as possible. I did a bit of research on advrider.com specifically in the stove thread, reading every single post there, and at long length finally decided on the approach I was going to take with this.

BikerBit's Mark Victor uses a butane cylinder with an adaptor and a "China Stove" somewhat similar to an MSR Pocket Rocket to cook his meals, and his system works quite well from boiling water for a cuppa, right down to simmering for cooking scrambled eggs or pancakes. I was impressed, and decided I would base my new setup on his, but with some changes.

I ordered my stove off of eBay.ca, and purchased the "Dpower Ultralight Folding Backpacking Camping Stove Gas-powered Stove with Piezoelectric" for about $13.95 CDN

Will this replace my trusty SVEA?

Butane to Lindal Gas Adapter

I also added a "Gas Adapter for Connecting Long Butane Canister to Hiking/Camping Stove" to my shopping cart, and after a visit to the local Canadian Tire outlet in Charlottetown for a $9.99 CDN three pack of butane cylinders, I was armed with everything I needed to use this stove when I got it, which was this afternoon.

227g x 3 cans = 681 grams of gas for $9.99

Of course I had to take this out onto the porch and fire it up...

I'm impressed! For a about $23 dollars I'm just about set, all I would need to add to this is a windscreen which I have in my regular "kitchen" set that costs about $5 CDN on ebay.ca

I was a bit disappointed in that the thin metal bracket that holds the piezoelectric igniter in place was bent, but I was able to set that right quickly with a pair of pliers, and it was very easy to disassemble the burner into it's component parts to right the problem.

I found that running on the butane mix, it worked very well at full throttle, and I was also able to taper the fuel off for a lovely simmer that should be perfect for pancakes or scrambled eggs as opposed to full on for simply boiling water.

CAUTION when using Butane Cylinders!

When I wondered why my stove flared up once in a while during testing, I did a Google search for "100% butane stove flare" and found this article on the subject: Butane Adapter Warning!

These cylinders are meant to be used in only two orientations...

• Straight up in the vertical plane with the can set on a level surface
• laying in a horizontal plane with the "Notch" of the can kept in the vertical. 

Note the plastic pipe is set to "sip" gas from the vertical
Any other orientation and liquid gas flare ups will
result. 

So I modified my setup by adding two pipe clamps joined together to create legs that would keep the cylinder oriented with the cylinder "notch" kept to the vertical as described in the blog. (See the new adapter I found on AliExpress.com that I'll be using in 2020)

I also made a wee 50 second video showing what happens when liquid butane enters the stove by improper position of the butane cylinder.  

Please note that there are other gas adapters which include so.me form of feet or stabilization for the cylinder which orient the notch in the vertical plane, as seen below.

Gas Tank Adapter - Butane to Lindal

Gas Adapter - Butane to Lindal "Tripod"

I bought a newer adapter at the end of the 2019 season, and haven't tested it yet, but it looks ideal for this situation:

 The legs will hold the cylinder in the upright position when the canister is laid down horizontally as I intend to use it. This is the "locked" position for the adapter. Below the Lindal Valve side is showing. Now that I've two of these D-Power stoves, Caroline will be able to carry one set, and I'll carry the other for three season camping. They work very well for power failures as well.

Update 2017-10-09:

I used the stove and adapter for the first time this past thanksgiving weekend at my campsite in Ship Harbour Nova Scotia, and found that the initial pressure of the butane cylinder had gone from a roar down to an easily controlled burn that made it a simple matter to set up and boil water for tea. I didn't time it, but it is easily as good as the SVEA at boiling up about 800ml of water, but a decent wraparound windscreen is a must to get good burn times in moderately windy conditions.

Note the notch is vertical, and the can is slanted slightly uphill.

Once again, cylinder position is important, and on the sloping ground I was careful to orient the cylinder top uphill and in the vertical.

The next morning at a temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius, the butane again performed well and I simply boiled up water for tea and oatmeal, then again some for washup. The ease of use alone with the piezoelectric igniter and a simple turn of the valve makes this setup extremely useful, although I miss my old SVEA, and I would prefer some wider bottomed pots where the small burner size of the SVEA leant it to smaller pot sizes.

If anything, setting up the windscreen took the longest time, and looking for the black stuff sack for the stove, the and black bag for the windscreen, all stuffed into the black kitchen bag took the longest time for the teardown. lol.

Here is a great article on Canister stoves especially the cold weather use:

https://backpackinglight.com/canister_stove_faq/

Update: 2018-06-27 

I've been bench testing this stove at home, and the volume of gas isn't as much as when I first tried it last fall. In fact, I'd call it a middlin' flame, and while stronger than a spirit burner, it's now a suspect stove and I set it aside for my next trip in favour of a canister top stove similar to the MSR Pocket Rocket, although at less than one fifth the price. 

I'm pretty sure it's caused by a blockage in the hose, so will try disassembly to see if I can't put it to rights. (Fixed it, see below)

I gave up and left it at home in favour of another cheap china stove that performed well.

This setup worked flawlessly with the butane.

This one is a combination of an adaptor tripod and a burner unit that has performed well for me over a few trips.

Update: 2019-09-29

I was bored and playing with my camping gear and decided to have a look at the blockage. The D-Power stove is fairly easy to disassemble and I was quickly able to isolate the issue to the gas supply hose itself. I cleared a blockage by inserting a four inch piece of telephone/network jumper wire into each end, after which I was able to get full flame from the stove once more.

The gas supply hose was blocked
The blockage was cleared by inserting jumper wire four inches into either end

Tools used: Needle nose pliers and Cat5 jumper wire

I've also purchased a shorter windscreen for this setup as you can see that the windscreen I was using at first was quite tall, much taller than it needed to be.

Hopefully this one will fix will last for a good long while, as I really like the thought of using these cheaper butane cartridges along with a low centre of gravity burner arrangement, especially as I now camp with my girlfriend, and need a 1.6 litre pot full of water on the boil, whereas I used to be content with half that amount of water in the morning for tea and porridge.

Cheers for now!

Alcohol Stoves

Why burn it when you can drink it? 'Cause this is the stuff that will make you go blind, in fact, alcohol is so common that much of it contains a bittering agent to make it unpalatable.

These stoves run on "Denatured Alcohol" and are significantly lighter than white gas or Coleman Fuel (naphtha), and the fuel they use can be diluted with water. If your alcohol bottle leaks, you can simply let it evaporate off or flush with water to render it harmless.  They have become a favourite of the ultra light backpacking crowd, and appeal to those who want a simple, no moving parts stove, or who may be on a budget or wish to build their own. 

• lightweight
• fuel available worldwide
• no moving parts
• no maintenace
• DIY
• inexpensive 

Of course there are many commercial models available as well, manufactured from brass, tin, titanium or aluminum, such as:

• Trangia - perhaps the most famous of all alcohol stoves, and has been selling the Trangia since 1925. A number of clones have been made, including one made entirely of aluminum as opposed to the heavier brass construction. The simmer ring can be used to extinguish the stove, and once it cools down, you can cap it and keep the remaining fuel for use later, a feature that the other stoves don't permit.

The Trangia burner with simmer ring

The Trangia Mini

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• Vargo - offers a number of titanium stove models with differing reviews
• eBay search "alcohol stove" will come up with thousands of hits including the "whitebox" stove, similar to the type I review.

Alcohol, propane isobutane/cartridge, white gas/naphtha stoves seem to be used in the following order due to starting weight for hikers:

• overnight and weekend trips up to three days - alcohol
• longer than three day trips - propane isobutane/cartridge
• long trips over a week in duration - white gas/naphtha 

This boils down (pardon the pun) to BTUs per pound of fuel (All figures are approximate):

• Alcohol = 10,000 BTU per pound
• Petrol/Gasoline =   19,000 BTU per pound
• White Gas/Naphtha = 20,000 BTU per pound 
• Propane/isobutane blend = 21,000 BTU per pound

So the alcohol stove is less half as efficient under ideal conditions as the Cartridge stoves, and of those stoves, the venerable old Trangia from back in 1925 manages to beat most of the competition with roughly 60% efficiency. You need to add wind, temperature and other factors in, so the rule of thumb is one ounce of fuel per meal for 1-2 persons, (I've found I need as much as two ounces under adverse conditions) and at ten meals and with higher efficiency, you now want to pack the cartridge stove as it now weighs less than your alcohol stove with fuel.

I guess on a motorcycle weight is much less of a concern, and the more reviews I read on this subject, the far happier I am with my white gas stove, the SVEA123R which can also burn petrol if needed, and that appeals to me as I can siphon some out of the tank if the noodles aren't done yet when I run out of fuel for the stove.  

I've made a couple of the soda can stoves myself, a side burner soda can stove, and I'll admit that while my first one worked, it wasn't very pretty, and it took a bit more effort to fashion a more streamlined version. I found a great YouTube video from Biker Bits Australia and embedded it at the bottom. All you need is a sharp knife, a thumbtack, a pair of pliers , cotton balls and two soda cans to have a working camp stove. Check out how easy these are to make, and how well it performs for Mark.

Ugly as sin, but it works quite well!

 I made the above with a sharp knife, pair of scissors, straight edge and a thumb tack (later on I went with a drill bit), and a black felt tip marker and two pepsi cans.

Fire!!!

I dropped it into a frying pan on top of the stove, and lit it up. This model takes a minute or two to preheat, and in that time will burn with a lazy yellow flame which turns into a hotter blue flame as it warms up. Note that the flames may not be visible in daylight. I had to turn off the kitchen lights and the camera flash in order to get this picture. 

I find that wire allows enough air flow to keep the stove lit under the pot

I found a vendor on eBay that was selling a sideburner that was well endorsed by ADVRider.com members, and decided I'd join the crowd and order one as I had no access to the aluminum beer bottles it would take to fashion the stove, and was pretty excited when it arrived, so I threw together a wee kit and decided I had to try it at work in about -10 degree weather in a snowbank.

And it tries to escape through into the snow bank.

 I found that as the burner began to heat up, it also had the disturbing tendency to melt the snow beneath it and plummet down, so I grabbed an aluminum plate from the truck to serve as a base, placed the windscreen around it, and was able to set my pot on top of it (to immediately extinguish the flames). *sigh*

I then fashioned a loop of steel wire to set on top of the burner to allow a couple of millimetres of air flow, and lit it again. This time it burned well, although it extinguished before the water was boiling, and I refilled the burner to maximum this time with about three ounces of fuel or more.

Heating up the water for my lunch

It took a lot longer with more fuel than I was expecting to get to a boil in the cold weather, around 8 minutes or so, but eventually I was able to pour in my Cup Of Soup packet and stir it as it quickly cooked.

Soups up!

 Alrighty now. It passed the test, but I was disappointed by how much fuel it took to boil the water, and later on that summer when a group of friends and I chose to ride the Trans Labrador highway, I left this behind in favour of my trusty SVEA123R.

I wasn't about to give up though, and after a bit more research, I found that the "Penny Can Stove" seemed to be favoured as highly efficient, so found another eBay buy that came with a stove, flashlight and lighter! 

You can see in the picture that it is would with rope. The idea is you fill the stove via the hole in the top, then stopper it with the thumbscrew. Now you need to raise the temperature to increase the pressure inside the stove, so you soak the rope with fuel, and set it alight. Once this stove gets going it will put out a ton of heat, and run longer than the sideburner stove I tried, but with flames all over the outside, you need a flame proof surface to rest this on, or you might end up on Smokey the Bear's most wanted list. (Don't STAMP on a grass fire, try to SWEEP it out, or dump water on it. Don't ask me how I know)

All this and more could be yours!

This model also needs a pot stand supplied, and a windscreen as well, and I was able to find a multipurpose one on eBay that I would use with this stove and my SVEA123R. 

If you'd like to build your own Penny Stove, you will find a link here to instructions on how to make one. PDF Format

Another eBay gem

I never really used this windscreen with the alcohol stoves, although it seemed a really neat idea, the SVEA123R comes with a built in windscreen, and the alcohol stove is so lightweight and small that a windscreen this large and heavy is overkill. 

Back to the beer bottle stove and another roadside lunch break, and it was clear that the little stove performed much better in the summer weather, and it seemed to take no time to heat up a tin of chili for my lunch. In fact, I used too much fuel and had to remove the pot from the burner long before it went out!

What's cooking?

I needed to test this in the field, and later on at a Vintage Road Racing Association weekend at Canadian Tire Motorsports Park I was able to put beer bottle sideburner to the test once more, this time on some hot dogs that I was sure Suzi would enjoy as much as I would.

Everything is in here but for the food

What I really love about this setup is how small and light it packs away. This pot set is actually part of a larger 4 piece set, and is the smaller of the two pots, the larger one stores my SVEA123R set. Inside you can see:

• aluminum foil windscreen
• j-cloth cleaning rag
• fuel bottle
• the inverted stove on top of the fuel bottle

I can easily cram a packet of Cup-a-Soup or some tea bags in here!

Nalgene bottle fuel storage

It's time to get this show on the road, as Suzi is looking longingly at the hot dogs, and beginning to lick her lips in anticipation.

Sorry folks, this is going to take awhile.

I had to bring the water to a boil and keep it there, and the stove was easily up to the task, and in due course I thought the hot dogs were nicely done, although Suzi thought they were too hot.

Note the flames heat the side of the pot? I need a bigger pot.

I learned a couple of things here, first is that your windscreen needs to be close enough so the flames stay underneath of your pot, but not close enough for them to contact and melt or slag the screen itself. Second, those pot handles are HOT! I used my hat to protect my hands when removing if from the stove.

It's about damn time!

Suzi's review would go something like this... "It took forever! I would have been happy eating them stone cold! It's not as if they hadn't already been cooking on the motorcycle all afternoon long! Nom nom nom, please sir, may I have some more?"

It's all about the Heat. Directing, retaining, and reflecting it. 

• windscreen efficiency and ability to keep heat flowing up around the pot
• pot size and shape relative to the flame spread
• reflector base to prevent heat from escaping into the ground
• Pot Cozy for keeping heat in the pot after it has been removed from the burner. Very popular with the "Freezer Bag Cooking" crowd (dehydrated meals) 

Windscreen: For the DIY crowd, have a look at those heavy foil roasting pans in the supermarket. They are made of heavier aluminum foil and will make a nice roll up screen for your set. If you have more money, you make want to take a look at the "Caldera Cone" system which gets great reviews for speeding up boil times and reducing fuel consumption. I like the look of the tripod style such as that made by Esbit or Clikstand and it gets a good review as both a windscreen and pot stand in one.

Pot Size/Shape: Note that trend for pots to be squat with larger bottoms? This is the reason why. You want the flame spread of the burner to hit the bottom of the pot and spread, not heat the sides as this is inefficient. You might note that my pot is not wide enough for the burner. A trick is to add a bit of water to the burner fuel to REDUCE the size of the flames and keep them under your pot. Suggestions are about 50ml of water added per 1000ml of fuel, or five parts per hundred.

Reflector base: I see many pie tins cut to fit into the bottom of the cooking pot, but larger than the burner base. My main use for my burner base was to prevent it from sinking into a snow bank, and I found it very useful for providing a steady, firm base while using the stove on uneven soil.

Pot Cozy: Most of the examples I've seen have been made out of "Reflectix", basically foil covered bubble wrap found in the insulation section of your hardware store, and rolls of it were under $17 that would provide enough material to make several of them. One blogger suggests using car windscreen reflectors for material. There is also trend for "Freezer Bag Cozy", where a camper would fill their freezer bag in the cozy with the newly boiled water, then leave it in the cozy to re-hydrate and finish cooking while they go on about their over campsite tasks. These are similar to padded shipping envelopes.

Fuels:

In Canada if you are looking for a clean hot burning fuel, you will want to use a refined (think fewer additives) grade of Methanol, and you'll find Recochem Methyl Hydrate located in most paint departments, including that of Canadian Tire and Home Hardware, available in one to four litre containers. I found that a four litre jug is far too much and has been sitting in the garage for six years now. lol. The list below is rated from cleanest and hottest burning down to a sooty, lazy flame from the rubbing alcohol. Basically, the purer your Methanol is, the cleaner and hotter it will burn.

1. Recochem Methyl Hydrate, along with a link to the MSDS information for it. PDF Format.
2. HEET (yellow bottle) - available in the United States at most gasoline stations and Wally Mart (avoid the red bottle)
3. Isopropyl Alcohol 90% or purer USP at any pharmacy
4. Rubbing Alcohol 

Do not use gasoline/petrol in these stoves, unless your intent is to lose eyebrows and to watch all that lovely aluminum slag down as you set a grass fire at your campsite, impressing both your neighbours and the local fire brigade. Use only alcohol that is Methanol based or Ethanol. Meths will burn cleaner and far hotter.  NOTE: I've learned that you take a risk when using petrol, but it can be done:
Here is a Trangia set that someone is using petrol in, although the flames are very high and the pot is covered in soot.  And Mark from Biker Bits Australia shows you a soda can hack that works with petrol in this video. Have a fire extinguisher on hand or a safe exit strategy or both.

DIY Penny Stove:

Biker Bits Australia - Mark makes it look easy and fun, and does a much better job of it than I did on my first attempt. :P




While I like the penny stove, I favour a modified Starlyte design:

In Conclusion:

While I love the simplicity and weight of the alcohol stoves, I find that I pack the SVEA123R for most of my trips, and have only used the alcohol stoves a few times over the past few years. Still, they speak to me, and I still have half a gallon of Methyl Hydrate aka Methanol sitting in the garage, and that penny stove sitting on my bureau. I keep looking at making a pot stand for the penny stove and thinking of what I have that would make a decent pot stand. This past summer I could easily have used the alcohol stove to heat all the meals I had at the camp site, and thinking of the decrease in weight by dropping to a lighter stove, smaller pot set is very appealing.

If you are interested and want to get started, then I recommend the Trangia Mini set as a great starting place, as it comes with a workhorse of a burner and everything you need to cook over alcohol efficiently for one to two people. Check out eBay for deals and copies.

I think I've got one or two more tours left in me this year before I'm forced to call it quits for the season, and I'd really like to make those runs on a lighter bike with less weight as it really affects wear on the machine and handling in the twisties. 

Resources and Links:

Zen Backpacking Stoves
Adventures in Stoving
Review: Lightweight Alcohol Stoves for Backpacking
Backpacking Alcohol Stoves

The Pika Stove
The Super Cat Alcohol Stove
The Ion Stove
Mini Trangia Mess Kit and Esbit Potstand
Urbanus Magnus - Gear Review: Trangia Alcohol Stoves
My Life on Two Wheels - How I cook on the road
The Best Backpacking Stoves of 2017 - offered for comparison only, and IMHO I don't care for their results, too heavily skewed for MSR products with no alcohol burners tossed in for comparison data.
ADVRider.com - The Stove Thread - 1300+ posts by stove enthusiasts that ride motorcycles and share their gear and success stories (and addiction).
Hobo Stoves
Taiwan Camping - The Ideal Alcohol Stove

Update: I've been playing around with the Super Cat Alcohol stoves made with a hole punch and a cat food can. If you just want to "Boil or Burn" then check out how slick and easy these are to make and use. Windscreen, Super Cat, Alcohol. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

SVEA123R repairs, mods and ramblings

I've gotten that spring fever travelling bug, and as I had received some stove parts on eBay from The Fettle Box for my SVEA123R, I thought I'd best retrieve the stove and pots from my Givi side cases in the garage and upgrade the stove with some new washers made from a better material than the stock rubber.

The Fettle Box sells the "Svea 123/123R filler cap seal & safety valve pip" made from "Viton" which is supposed to outperform the manufacture's stock washers and safety valve pip, and as I had spent some time on a picnic table at a campsite at Matane QC tinkering and trying to solve a pressure leak with the stove, I felt that replacing these parts was overdue.

Where there is a SVEA, there is a fire!

Svea 123/123R filler cap seal & safety valve pip

Svea 123/123R filler cap seal & safety valve pip

Disassembly of the filler cap was required in order to remove the safety valve pip, which was causing me the grief by venting a slight amount of pressure, but there is a hitch, as the filler cap has a pentagram rather than a hex shape on the top, and the removal tool sold by the Fettlebox is £17.00 which  coupled with shipping is priced too high, so I tried a number of bits and found that a Torx T-15 pictured below worked well to remove the safety valve retaining cap. Be careful as they used a thread locker, and you may want to use a bit of heat or acetone to dissolve it in order to avoid damaging the brass pieces. I made out alright with just hand pressure on the screwdriver. Mark the thread depth before removal, to aid in reassembly. 

The Torx T-15 works on the standard filler cap

Conversely, I was unable to use the T-15 Torx on the filler cap that ships with the optional accessory air pump cap, so I replaced the filler cap on the stove with my original filler cap after replacing the seals.

What to expect when you crack it open... Type 3

Air pump and replacement filler cap

And, as we used to say in the Army, "Test after assembly"...

Priming and Preheating:

When I first bought the stove, I used to use Coglhan's Fire Paste in a squeeze tube,

 but it was bulky and left sooty residue all over the stove, so I then resorted to the pump to pressurize the stove, then crack the valve and let raw fuel jet up then leak down into the primer depression, closing the valve when the primer cup became full, then light the white gas (naptha, or Coleman Fuel) and that preheats the stove nicely. The pump and pressure venting cap are really only required at high altitudes and cold operating temperatures, so I needed to fall back on to a method that would work with the stock cap, so I made a straw out of a Bic pen (supplied by Canada Moto Guide's Fundy Adventure Rally). So the prime is quite easy:

• Remove the filler cap
• dip the straw into the fuel, sealing one end with your thumb
• place fuel into the primer cup and repeat as necessary
• replace the filler cap
• light the fuel in the primer cup on fire
• crack open the valve and wait for blue flame and distinct "helicopter roar"

This year I upgraded the bic pen to a short piece of plumber's pipe, 1/4" by about 2" to 3" in length.

I've seen other folks preheat their stoves using methylated spirits aka denatured alcohol, but I'm already carrying around a spare fuel bottle, and all of this on top of a tank of unleaded fuel on my motorcycle...

The Bic priming straw 

I've been watching some YouTube videos lately, and saw one where the gentleman had modded his stove, and moved the regulating key from the center of the stove where it was fastened, onto the brass windscreen as pictured below. It used to be a bit of an acrobatic dance with fire to mount the windscreen after first threading the regulating key and chain through the center of the windscreen, all while the burner was pumping out a lovely 5000 BTU flame. Now that I have relocated the key, I can simply mount the windscreen then position the key. It has an added benefit of applying a nice friction fit to the aluminum pot that ships with the stove, so I'm quite pleased with this well thought out mod.

The new location for the chain of the regulating key 

While riding the Gaspe Peninsula in Quebec with my girlfriend, I made this short video to highlight how loud this stove can be while in use.

Can it actually burn unleaded automobile fuel? (aka gasoline, gas, petrol, benzene, l'essence, gasolio etc.)

The official answer printed in the Optimus SVEA User Manual is NO:
F. USE ONLY white gasoline (unleaded). Not car gasoline.
But unofficially you can burn automobile fuel in the "Swedish Hand Grenade" and the original SVEA123 includes a jet cleaning tool to remove deposits while the SVEA123R has the jet orifice cleaning tool attached to the regulating valve so can easily be cleaned. White gasoline or naphtha (Coleman Stove fuel) burns hotter and cleaner, so if you do drain the fuel on your motorcycle and add it to your SVEA, I expect your pots will be as black as the inside of your exhaust pipe. This gentleman travelled extensively while using unleaded gasoline in a Coleman two burner 425 model. A tip to reduce fouling of the stove was to add a dash of fuel injector cleaner to each tank of fuel.
Obviously you do so at your own risk. Advice from the internet is worth what you paid for it. Jimbo runs automobile fuel in his SVEA... and another source in Australia runs petrol in his, but also stipulates that he rinses it out well and NEVER stores the stove over the winter with gasoline in the tank as the newer ethanol blends will separate, gum up and varnish the works, just as they would do to a carburettor.
Gasoline will blacken your pots as it is a very dirty fuel, so be warned.

Petrol (Gasoline) in the SVEA 123

And it runs beautifully on two year old fuel. Love this stove!

And it runs beautifully on seven year old Coleman fuel after one prime. I love this stove, as it's very simple to operate, maintain and clean, and with the upgraded Viton washers, should require no further repairs for a very long time. In fact I understand that refined white gasoline has a very long shelf life, and the only danger of buying the one gallon tin, is that cold air in the tin might condense water vapour and contaminate the fuel, or rust the interior of the can.

Classic Camp Stoves in the UK has some excellent information on the SVEA lineup including this great tear down How-To article. You might also want to search YouTube for "Bernie Dawg SVEA" 

The Optimus SVEA123R product information including manual is here, and it sells the spare parts kit here.

Spare Parts Kit

Spare Parts Kit for Optimus Svea.
Content:
1 cleaning needle
1 jet
1 spindle
1 metal ring for spindle
1 graphite ring
1 stuffing box for spindle
1 packing for tank lid

Article number: 8016526

The parts list for the 123R

Update: 2017-08-12 

That plastic tube I was using to fill the primer cap started to split and I was having trouble using it as a "pipette" so I upgraded to a wee 1/4" piece of copper pipe used by plumbers and HVAC repair, and it worked very well for daily use over eight days of camping this year. 

The viton seals are holding up perfectly. Although on the motorcycle, the vibration is causing my regulator key to slip it's chain, so moving the key hasn't been a perfect solution, it is easier to use in this fashion, and takes seconds to slip back onto the brass windscreen. Perhaps another pinch with the pliers is in order to close the gap a touch more. 

I need to clean and perhaps polish the stove as it is harder to place and remove the twist on windscreen as the tank oxidizes and accumulates minute dirt particles.

Note the key was moved to the windscreen,
and the copper "priming straw" seen in the photo 

Update: 2023-05-08

I was out for a picnic lunch this past weekend with my girlfriend Caroline, and like a newb I completely forgot to check the stove for fuel, and it was wet, but just, so I wasn't able to hear the helicopter roar that I'd waited for all winter long. **Sigh. Idiot. I did think you might be interested in the new pot set that I'm carting it around inside, so here you go. 

The cup on the left is chineseium 750ml mug/pot
The stainless steel kettle with lid is 1.1l

The svea nestles well with some room for knick knacks like a can opener, a spork, and a lighter.



And the tank was dry... Darn it! 

We ended up using a wee pocket gas stove and a 110gr cartridge that I bought for Caroline and I so we would have more than one stove with us on every trip. I needed it lol.

Did you know that the SVEA is about the same size as a Nalgene 1 quart/litre bottle? Anything with a similar diameter will fit over the SVEA, so you could ditch the aluminum cup/cap and replace it with a decent sized cut such as a 650ml or 750ml Ti cup that would double as a solo pot. Pretty slick when you think of how small a package this can be to have a brew or make lunch. 

Cheers!

Update: 2024-10-22

I decided to haul out the stove for a brew in the garage while stacking firewood for the winter, and the tank was empty and didn't I go ahead and make a huge mistake, and fill up the tank to the brim and try running it?! It lit but it was so lazy I gave up on it and used a gas stove in it's stead. Then I remembered that the tank needs to be 3/4 full with a good air gap so I drained some fuel out of the tank, fired it up and it ran perfectly again. :)

Resources:

Optimus SVEA

Optimus Svea 123R Stove Review (White gas/Naphtha only)

BernieDawg's Svea 123R Stove Reassembly