|Caroline pulling into Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia|
Google Maps Link - Nova Scotia
Google Maps Link - New Brunswick
Day 1 - 16 Aug - Charlottetown PE to Blomidon NS - Drive 336 mi, 7 hours, 9 minutes
|Charlottetown PE to Blomidon NS|
|The Confederation Bridge|
|They let us in! The fools!|
|Advocate Harbour NS|
|The view from Old Branch Shulie Road, Joggins NS|
|The view from Old Branch Shulie Road, Joggins NS|
|The view from Old Branch Shulie Road, Joggins NS|
|Yep, kinda busted up a bit. Pick your line and maybe reduce your speed.|
Shulie road can be ridden by anyone that knows how to slow down a bit and avoid potholes.
|The Shulie Road NS 209 from Joggins to Apple River is not in the best of shape|
The one and only gas station in the town looks like it was playing host to a bunch of Sunday drivers, a car club, and I couldn't help but admire some of the classic cars on display.
The rolls at the Wild Caraway are fantastic, and I could have stuffed myself with their signature caraway and dulse (seaweed) rolls with butter and called it a meal. We couldn't resist the dessert on the menu, sticky date pudding with some ice cream! It was fabulous. We have been eating there for three riding seasons and have never been disappointed with the food they serve.
|Sticky date pudding with ice cream... Mmmmm!|
|Tonight's dessert, a pint of wild blueberries courtesy of the Yorke Family Farm|
Lower Five Islands on the Glooscap Trail.
We wanted to stay along the coast, but had no real reason to visit Truro, other than to top off our tanks again, but you have to be on the highway to cross over the Salmon river to the East, so we hopped onto the Trans Canada and then off again, and retraced a route that would take us across the Shubenacadie river. Just to the south of Truro is South Maitland NS, where you follow 236 until it joins up with 215, but we hit a wee traffic snarl as the bridge was reduced to a single lane while the concrete deck was being refitted, and I was able to snap a pic of the Shubenacadie River at low tide as we crossed over.
|The Shubenacadie River looking south|
North of NS 215
|The lighting isn't perfect, I should use a foreground flash next time. |
I love this shot.
|Looking north along the TennyCape River at low tide|
|The view along the Walton River, |
Lorne Smith Road
|We still have a ways to go|
- Fuel the bikes
- Purchase Four litres of water
- A wee container of milk for morning tea
- A dessert (a couple of chocolate bars)
- Anything else that struck our fancy
- whipping cream
- Pancetta for our Ramen
|A harbour along the Minas Basin near Delhaven NS|
|Looking North from Pereau Road to White Water,|
Blomidon Provincial Park Nova Scotia
|MSR Alpine Stowaway aka Seagull|
The park has exterior washup sinks at the showers, so we washed up everything with some soap and water, performed our ablutions for the evening, and by that time is was full dark and time to crawl into our tents and see how loud loud the neighbourhood was going to be.
Day 2 - 17 Aug - Blomidon NS to Middleton NS - 80 Kilometres - 2 hours
|The rain turns momentarily into fog|
|I love that early morning smile. |
|Rain drops aren't falling on my bread, they're not falling... |
|I've been carrying a hoodie, and today it comes in very useful!|
|We are in the Kentville area on this map. or that is the closest weather station to us. |
We could stay at the park another night, but we only had until 1300 checkout, but then we would need to pack our tents up and shift everything to a the new camp site, so if we were going to pack up, why not just pack up and keep riding that day along our track. Caroline had burned up the weak LTE signal to find a motel that would allow us to dry out and stay nice and comfy overnight just up in Middleton NS, a distance of only about 80 km, but in the cold, wet rain it was a bit too far at the moment. I'm channeling a ride we did from Quebec City up to Chicoutimi that was crazy wet and cold in September of last year, and I found myself in enjoyable agreement with how cozy it would be to camp out with a roof over our heads for a night. Lol.
|Nong Shim Pork Noodle Soup for lunch!|
Our suite at the Fundy Spray Motel
Surprisingly decent for the price, and with a kitchen
Right, it was early, and we wanted to do a bit of shopping and lay in some wobbly pops and perhaps a bit of junk food, and while Caroline shopped in the grocery store for morning breakfast that was going to be fresh eggs, with milk for tea and some ice cream bars for dessert that she liked. Salted Caramel something or others iirc. I headed over to King Size Pizza and collected the order for Panzerotto that I'd called in to them about 30 minutes ago from the comfort of our motel suite at the Fundy Spray Motel. We had more than enough food to wait out the storm of doom, and I made sure my motorcycle was visible from the window. And with fresh, hot pizza, and an armful of junk food and breakfast bits, we got stuck into our Panzerotti. Fantastic! Best (only) panzerotti I've had on the East coast, and I'd ordered enough for three people thinking that they might be on the small side, so it was two Donair, and one Pizza, but the donair panzerotti defeated us, and we put combined the leftovers, ate our ice cream bars, drank a bit of cider, while Caroline really enjoyed some new to her Smirnoff cranberry lime vodka soda. They were good, and so refreshing to have all the flavour with none of that pop skull sugar that guarantees a diabetic high for me complete with a hangover. Anyhow, we watched a bit of television but it was probably around 2130 when we opted for bed and reading.
Day 3 - 18 Aug - Middleton NS to Shelburne NS - 300km - 6 hours
|Middleton NS to Islands Provincial Park NS|
I had a good sleep, and for once got a bit of a sleep in instead of waking up at 0500, so after a shower, we loaded the bikes up with our gear, and...
|The bikes are loaded and we're minutes away from mentally preparing ourselves|
Yeah, we are not going to get set any long distance records, but we are so easy going that just meandering along is part of the adventure, and I love being with someone who can put up with my "like a leaf blowing in the wind, I never know which way I will get blown" attitude. That's a lie, I can become Mr. Cranky Pants with the best of them, but allow my my delusions, it keeps the rest of you safe. We did have a long chat with Dave about bikes and Ontario where he had been living for a while before moving back to Middleton where his Dad and Mom were. Caroline and I were grateful that we could hand him our ice cream and eggs so they wouldn't go to waste, as neither of us had any appetite but for tea and coffee that we'd made and enjoyed an hour ago. Dave took the eggs over to his apartment and announced to his two guests that scrambled eggs were on the menu, so we felt good about our impromptu gifting. And with that, we waved goodbye and set off along NS 1 bound for Annapolis Royal NS and hopefully somewhere near Halifax as I was going to need to prepare for that interview.
|Wharf Rat Rally|
Digby Nova Scotia
Downtown Digby Nova Scotia
Caroline wanted to visit one of the stores and look at possible gifts for her mother's birthday, which set me at large for a few minutes to look over the town Cenotaph and the cannon located there.
|Each of the local industries of digby is represented on the boat, with wood carvings representing the trades and industries.|
|A very nice view, and the harbour isn't so bad either|
|This building opposite us looks so old, I wondered what it's history might have been.|
|Office space for lease. Stilts?|
|I got my monies worth I think|
|I wasn't a huge fan of the sauce, but this took me back in time to my hometown of Richmond Hill Ontario, and Abruzzo's panzerotti.|
|Yarmouth, 77km thataway!|
|Tam & Mary overlooking Barn Pool|
as seen from the Fort Point Road
North Weymoth NS
along the Evangeline Trail
|Can you see the smile?|
|The Rock (They made a movie about this!)|
|Definitely a rock I think, but I could be wrong|
|Cape Forchu Lighthouse|
Cape Forchu Nova Scotia
|Looking East across Yarmouth Sound |
towards Sunday Point
as seen from Cape Forchu
|Looking South from Cape Forchu|
|50' Baleen Whale|
Discovered and donated by Stephen Goreham
on an island off of Woods Harbour NS
|The head, weighing in at an estimated 2000 pounds|
|50 foot Baleen whale carcass|
|High tide ad winds create these small pools in the rocks. I call it a mini fjord.|
|Cape Forchu Couplie!|
|A view more familiar to the sailors|
|Looking North along the shore of Cape Forchu|
|Snack time closeup!|
|Ooh! Caroline brings out the big guns for some shots! |
False Harbour NS
|The view to the right of Outer False Harbour, Nova Scotia|
|False Harbour Beach|
Cape Forchu, Nova Scotia
|Wild roses, my Caroline and those in front of you.|
|Rose hips and beaches|
|Darned light is backlighting her! |
|Is this a tidal pool? It has a beauty of its own|
|I wonder if they prefer the catamaran hull? I haven't seen many fishing boats like this in my travels.|
|Lest We Forget|
|Église catholique Sainte-Anne Catholic Church|
|Looking south from the Lighthouse Route NS 3 |
A brook leading to Pubnico Harbour Nova Scotia
|Caroline on her 2004 Honda Shadow|
|The Lighthouse Route|
One of my favourite signed trails in all of the East Coast
Now we could erect our tents in the family campground, then with some empty side cases, ride back into town to shop for the evening where I managed to find some No Boats on Sunday apple cider, one of my absolute favourite tipples out here, or anywhere for that matter. It's a crisp, dry cider that goes down well when cold.
|My view from the picnic table.|
|Is that a butterfly?! Is it a bird? A plane!?|
|The maple trees are trying to use my girlfriend as potting soil!|
|The lights of Shelburne Nova Scotia|
Day 4 - 19 Aug - Shelburne NS to Peggy's Cove NS
|Shelburne NS to Peggy's Cove NS|
Do you get the feeling you know exactly what I'm going to have for breakfast again this morning? If you guessed milk tea with instant apples and cinnamon oatmeal you'd win a prize.
|Boiling the water for breakfast.|
|It was a chill, foggy morning today.|
|Coffee and candy sticks Caroline?!|
I'm surprised at you!
|Who needs caffeine this morning?|
Is it going to kick in? Please?!
|The Alps Mountaineering Chaos 3|
|When it's ready to roll, I toss the tent pole bag in, then roll the tent and all around the tent poles.|
|Suzi still rides with me in spirit.|
|I've a passenger this morning|
|There is nothing to do but gear up now...|
|Shelburne County Rail Trail |
as seen from The Lighthouse Route Nova Scotia
|Bridge jumping is the fashion.|
Bridge over the Medway (possibly?)
|White sea foam on the shore line|
|Crescent Beach Road|
LaHave Nova Scotia
|Fort Point Museum|
|Fort Sainte Marie De Grace|
Fort Point Museum
|The view over the LaHave River towards Riverport (Kraut Point) NS|
|They even cut them in half for us!|
It was an Ontario time meeting, so had another forty five minutes to kill, and tossed our gear back on and headed into town to find a good spot to park and do the interview. Caroline was extremely helpful, and loaned me her bluetooth headset, so I was able to do the Q&A for the interviewers as well as treating them to short facetime of the harbour area (and a tractor trailer backing up to make a turn on the narrow streets, sorry gents!)
I was a Sea Cadet when younger, and spent a lot of time learning some old skills from an old sailor that used to be in the Royal Navy and taught us ropework. We got the chance to walk into a chandlers shop and I loved every minute of it, trying to soak it all in, the Nova Scotia Sea School operating out of the rear of the building, and engaged in bringing a jolly boat down, and the mast, sails and oars for it down out of the third floor storage room. It was like stepping back in time a couple hundred years.
|Handsomely now lads! Handsomely!|
|A wooden sailing vessel tied to the pier|
I never did get that job, but I rather enjoyed the experience, and it gave me some good practice for the next of many interviews before I got hired on in a new support role.
|180 Bluenose Drive|
Lunenburg Nova Scotia
|She's dead Jim|
the view from
Stonehurst Rd, Lunenburg, NS
Back out onto 3 and from there, our destination was Peggy's Cove, so we still have a few miles to go yet...
|13 minutes away|
|Middle Point Cove|
|The Swiss Air SR 111 memorial site up and to the right|
|Swissair Flight 111|
|Whalesback looking toward the setting sun|
Saint Margarets Bay
|Looking across Saint Margarets Bay towards Southwest Cove NS|
|Peggy's Cove and Peggy's Point in view|
It was time to head over to Peggy's Cove and see how heavy the traffic was today. Three years ago, there had been about a kilometer of parked cars out on NS 333 and tons of foot traffic and a stream of cars angling to get closer to the iconic lighthouse. This year around five pm it was a relative ghost town! We were able to park and choose our own spot right up in the parking lot itself. The Sou’Wester Gift & Restaurant was open and doing a light COVID business, but we didn't want to have any part of increasing our exposure so opted to remain outside enjoying the view. Dad keeps saying I've been to Peggy's Cove before, but in his mind he was still a young thirty four year old, father to a girl and two boys, and I was holding on to one of his fingers with my whole four year old hand. So I think this could count as my first time at Peggy's Cove, as I have no memory of ever having been there before.
|Peggy's Point Lighthouse|
|Hair by Arai and Gmax|
|My favourite picture :)|
|You I Crush! Crush! Crush!|
|The Atlantic Ocean beating against the rocks at Peggy's Point|
|The view North, Peggy's Cove to the right,|
D'Aubin's Cove and Cranberry Cove in the distance.
|Peggys Cove Soi|
The view south of Prospect Road NS 333
|Caroline preparing the SPAM for our supper|
|SPAM! SPAM! SPAM!|
Sorry for spamming you.
|Caroline even saved some crunchy bits for the top|
Bam! a la Jake Piralta
|The Belle of this ball was the sweet corn. Mmmmm!|
Day 5 - 20 Aug - Peggys Cove NS to Murphy's Cove NSDrive 108 mi, 2 hours, 45 minutes
|Peggys Cove NS to Murphy's Cove NS|
|Now we are in the morning sun... You can't win. :)|
Breakfast was the usual, tea and oatmeal for me, and Caroline's coffee in her GSI Java Drip. Caroline packs along the paper filters, and a jar of coffee that she ground at home in preparation for the trip. She started out with the GSI Ultralight Java Drip, but hated how it packed away wet and dripping, so bought this at Sail.ca last year when our travels took us to Ontario to visit my family and friends. It collapses down to a small package, and can be stored away damp if need be. I found something similar at the dollar store, and paid $4 dollars for if memory serves me... Very similar to the Sili-Dripper reviewed here.
While we were enjoying a very lazy start to our day, we got into a conversation with a fellow camper, one from just up the hill in her trailer, so a regular.
|The Campground has a great sense of humour|
and loves dogs almost as much as I do.
|The remains of the original Martello Tower.|
|Bring a container if the berries are ripe. They grow on the slopes of the redoubt.|
|Dan the Man!|
|The CGI IS/IT gang -1|
|V for Victory!|
|OMG these things were good! Without question the best taco I have ever had! |
Pork Carnita Tacos with Pico de Gallo
|The gift of goodness... Moose meat!|
|Danny has a long term project to get this plated and back onto the road. |
I love it. I started on a 50cc Honda Monkey bike back when I was 16.
His boys are getting old enough to appreciate camping and fishing with their dad, and as Dan is a four wheel nut, he thought "how cool would it be if I made a "tent" for the boys on the bed of my truck?" Now he can wake up early, head down to the lake and do a bit of fishing while they play in the back of the truck, or do an overnight with them. The door latch was a 3D print and can be opened on the inside as well.
|It's a relief when you know you are heading in the right direction.|
Left turn, Clyde!
And onto Marine Drive
When you hit Upper Lawrencetown, you feel as if the city of Halifax and Dartmouth never existed. We were twisting and turning on 207 following the coast when we hit upon Stoney Beach right next to the Lawrencetown Beach Provincial Park, but this was where the surfers and kite surfers came to play.
|Burnt Church moose meat|
Day 6 - 21 Aug - Murphy's Cove NS Canso NSDrive 193 mi, 4 hours, 41 minutes
|Murphy's Cove NS Canso NS|
|Looking south at the Tickles|
Murphy's Camping on the Ocean
Murphy Cove, Nova Scotia
|Gazing at the Tickle Islands across the Murphy's pier.|
|Something tells me we aren't the only riders on the road today...|
Coastal 7 is a blast in this area, although it's the only game in town, so yes, the speed limit will change and you may have to pass a car or truck or two, but it's a fun run North towards Sheet Harbour.
|Sheet Harbour Visitor Information Centre|
West River Falls Boardwalk
|Looking North from the West River Bridge|
Sheet Harbour Nova Scotia
|Looking South from the West River Bridge|
Sheet Harbour Nova Scotia
The remains of the sawmill are to your left
|I think she's not going to work the sea again. |
Marie Joseph, Nova Scotia
|The former Canadian Coast Guard Ship |
"Sir Charles Tupper"
a Canadian Coast Guard ice-strengthened buoy tender that served from 1959 to 1998
|MV Caruso aka CCGS Sir Charles Tupper|
The wiki article on the vessel is quite interesting, especially the service history.
Marie Joseph Nova Scotia
There was a spot for lunch in the Village of Sherbrooke itself, Beanie's Bistro, although I was expecting more of a coffee house then a lunch room, and I was very pleased to be wrong! They were only serving meals outside, and the seating was full, so I expected Caroline and I would be sitting in the grass in front of the lovely flower gardens outside of the Bistro, but a table freed up and we would be able to eat our lunch on the porch. We were seated and waited upon immediately by the nicest staff.
|Pulled Pork Burger|
|Chicken Provolone Panini|
|Is this cool or what?!|
With lunch out of the way, and no set schedule we wanted to visit the Sherbrooke Village, part of the Nova Scotia Museum. While it is on Main Street, you have circle around into their parking lot on 3 Street, where they also have their administration building and public restrooms. We parked out motorcycles and shed our gear, but made sure to have our hats as it was a lovely summer's day, and we paid our $19.95 admission for adults but if they really knew me they would have only charged Caroline the $7.95 for me, and right there was the village blacksmith shop!
|Joe McLane |
|This is an example of the work he is capable of doing|
twisting and hammering wrought iron into a decorative and functional piece
|Tarp, Rope Hook, Zinc plated, $3.28|
|Sherbrook Village Map|
|Not enough snow and ice yet to use this|
"McAmes’ Mail coach left Antigonish for Sherbrooke and wine harbour after the arrival of the mail from cape Breton on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, returning same days."
History and Development of Sherbrooke, Nova Scotia A). https://sherbrookevillage.novascotia.ca/sites/default/files/inline/documents/history_of_sherbrooke_village.pdf.
Note, I did make up for it in 2021 when we made a whole trip out of visiting the village again. https://www.ridereports.ca/2021/07/2021-ye-olde-timey-sherbrooke-village.html
|Two and a quarter hours... |
Right, google has never been on a ride with us.
|We're on the road to nowhere...|
|Forgotten Shore Farm|
Port Hilford Nova Scotia
Forgotten Shore Farm
|211 Marine Drive|
|Free Ride!!! |
|Did you pay the ferryman? |
Country Harbour Ferry,
|Looking north up country harbour|
In 2017 I passed this very old building that looked completely out of place in this community, a brick and granite ediface that would not have looked out of place in an older section of downtown Toronto, and at the time I had no idea what it was doing out here in Guysborough.
|Transatlantic Cable station|
Sadly, there isn't much left behind three years later, but the granite foundations. I didn't even bother stopping this time, but I'm glad to have seen it before they tore it down.
|The old post Office|
Canso Nova Scotia
as seen from Indian Cove
Fox Island Main Road
Eastern Shore Nova Scotia
Looking west along the shore of Fox Bay
|Eating under a tree|
|That Stanely adventure frying pan is getting a workout!|
|I can't wait to get stuck in!|
|So good I can almost taste this picture.|
|Dessert. I threatened to post this one if she didn't smile. |
Mouthful of chocolate. :)
|Site number 8 and wee bit of 7 too. ;)|
|Fox Island as seen from our camp site.|
|Sunset over my tent|
Canso Nova Scotia
Day 7 - 22 Aug - Canso NS to Linwood NSDrive 114 km, 1 hour, 32 minutes
|Canso NS to Linwood NS|
We had a very short run today, but for now, it was time to wake up to a beautiful sunrise over Fox Island and get some tea and oatmeal going.
|It's almost all over now...|
Time for breakfast, and we all know what that is. Altogether now!
|Breakfast of Champions!|
That is a a collapsible silicone dog food bowl that I've been using since the spring of 2019 when I bought two of them from AliExpress.com for Caroline and I. The good... It folds down, and has a nice rigid lip so you can hold hot contents in it. The bad? It can retain the smell of your last meal for a bit too long. We had these Nongshim "Pork Noodle" ramen that tasted lovely but were oh so stinky, and for a week the bowls smelled, well, downright nasty. My bowl usually smells of apples and cinnamon, for that's what I feed myself each morning. Instant oatmeal Super Grains apple and cinnamon oatmeal from Quaker Oats. (Apparently this is only sold in Canada...). They are a decent size, and great for larger soups and bowls of Ramen and moose meat. :)
|Gypsies - Everything packed onto the bikes but our towels and riding gear.|
|Indian Cove in the morning light|
Never get off the bike!
Well, you have to ride if you want to get there, although we only had about an hour and a half to get there, so we felt no sense of urgency at all. Just the way I like it.
|The blue skies, the bright light, and those roads, sometimes hugging the coast, sometimes inland.|
There was a bakery we stopped at in Guysborough proper, where we bought some cookies for later that night, and outside was parked a burgundy convertible that looked amazing. In fact, I regretted not stopping for a picture moments after leaving it, and I told Caroline I was going back. I had to, it was a Mustang in the colour and year that was pretty much my dream car for years and years when I was a kid.
|The strait of Canso|
That car was beautiful, but I'd left Caroline sitting waiting for me on the roadside so I scooted off and caught up with her for the next phase of the ride, which was coming into Auld's Cove from the quarry side of the hill, and joining the traffic coming off the causeway and into mainland Nova Scotia. But first, the stretch from Boylston through to Sand Point is fun, scenic and all too short.
|St. Francis Harbour|
as seen from Marine Drive NS Route 344
We rode right past Hyclass Campground as we were going to fuel up the bikes and pick up some supplies for our next couple of days staying at the campground. There is a Petro Canada station in Monastery NS right on the Sunrise trail NS 4 that sells a mix of things, plus we'd be able to get a six pack of cider or some fireball for Caroline, but we had passed some signs for a restaurant called "Big Mama's" that had taken over the old post office in town, so it we thought it a great idea to try them out as it was lunch time, and a warm day. They had a picnic table out front, so we ordered some Poutine and a slice of pizza, and promised to share with each other. The food was okay, I think Caroline got the better part of the deal, as the slice was a bit indifferent, and all they had left was a cheese pizza slice. What I enjoyed about it most was sitting at the picnic table with Caroline and just being in the moment with her. It's a great memory, solid brick and aluminium of the federally constructed post office now converted into a restaurant, with my girlfriend sharing our lunch. Yeah, life is good.
|Big Mama's Poutine|
Monastery Nova Scotia
Caroline and I had stayed at Hyclass and really enjoyed talking with our hosts Valerie and Dave. We were able to get our old campsite back, but couldn't get an adjacent spot for the boys as a small family had rented the spot beside us. Ah well, you can't have it all. Dave is an outspoken Honda fanboy as well, so I was going to have to listen to Caroline and Dave telling all their Honda stories ad infinitum, but I jest. Valerie and Dave are just so easy to talk to, and it was nice picking up where we left off. We ordered a big tub of firewood and arranged to have it dropped off later that evening at site 6 that we had chosen. I was looking forward to the spectacular sunsets over Linwood Harbour.
We headed down and got set up at our camp site, then Caroline suggested we finally climb into that swimming gear that we've carried for ages and had a grand old splash at the beach until it seemed everyone was wandering off back to their campsites. That was a lovely swim. Hey! The boys had finally finished their trip from Taco Bell in Truro and had joined us at the campsite! That had become a bit of a joke with us, as they seemed more interested in Tacos, Arby's and a pawn shop, it was going to be cool to see some new faces around the campfire to be sure.
|Butane canister stove|
Around 2000 that evening the sun started to set, and Valerie had recommended this site as having a great view of the sunset. It was marvelous!
|The beach at Hyclass Campground by sunset (and moonlight)|
I'd been watching some YouTube videos for campfire recipes, and one that I'd seen done a couple of times looked so very simple that I'd made arrangements for the "necessaries" to be added to the list of food that Shamus had packed along. All the fixings for Campfire Banana Boats
Campfire Banana Boats
1/2 chocolate bar per banana or 1/4 cup chocolate chips split between two
nuts or trail mix if desired
cinnamon toast crunch
Preheat the campfire to coals :) (did you know that if you can hold the back of your hand over the flames for about three seconds that is roughly 350 degrees F?)
Slide in bits of chocolate and marshmallow until the slit is crammed full.
Wrap well with a couple layers of foil, making a pouch. The top of the pouch will be a handle for lifting out of the fire.
Cook them in the coals of the fire for five minutes, turning them once so they will be evenly cooked both sides.
I'd made a couple of extra's but everyone was full, so I wandered over to our neighbours site and offered them our two extra for his two boys, to which he agreed. Later on he called out his thanks and said the boys loved them as did he. :)
Day 8 - 23 Aug - Linwood NS - Hyclass Campground
|Canoeing around Linwood Harbour|
It was another beautiful day in Nova Scotia, and once we had a lovely breakfast orchestrated by Caroline out of the way, in which the boys learned to love the bag of No Frills hashbrowns and bacon, in fact, it later became known as the bag of smokey bacon goodness iirc.
What do you do to while away the time? Rent a canoe of course! So it was off to see Dave & Valerie in the office and rent a canoe for an hour or two. They keep the boats locked up at the stage, so all you have to do is haul the paddles, life jacket and emergency boat kit down to the dock, unlock and launch your canoe, then try to recall the last time you piloted a canoe, which would have been fourteen years ago in Bracebridge Ontario along the Muskoka River for a few days when working there with Bell Canada quite some time ago. Were my skills still up to it? I have to admit I've gained a bit of weight since then, and more when COVID sent everyone home to practice their baking skills. Mine was the perfect Yorkshire Pudding. :)
No worries, so long as I very gingerly got into the stern, settled down then waited while my co-conspirator climbed into the bow of the canoe. And we were off! No worries, all those years of paddling in Richmond Hill's Lake Wilcox, and further afield once Dad and Mom bought a cabin up near Emsdale Ontario came flooding back and I was J stroking with the best of them in no time. I've never done this on the ocean, and was a bit apprehensive about tides and such like. I have a healthy fear of being blown out to sea and ending up needing a no doubt expensive rescue from the North Atlantic Ocean or the Labrador Sea. No sir! Not on my watch! I'd run a trim craft and hang any mutinous dog out of hand to keep the others in line! Caroline was just happy to be on the water, and was very helpful taking suggestions from me as to which side of the canoe to paddle. It's tough as there was a breeze pressing us into shore, so I needed her to paddle on one side so I could expend more effort paddling vice steering. If you've ever done it, then you know what I mean. :)
|The boat launch|
|Captain Ron and his best mate or is that first mate?|
|That there is the Sunrise Trail|
|Cormorants on the rocks|
Linwood Harbour NS
|There she goes!|
|Is she waiting for me?!|
|The mainland is that a way!|
She's a goer that girl, set off to walk around the entire bar. I figured that was going to be more like a two kilometer walk that felt like twelve once that loose stone shifted in and out from under foot.
This space for rent
|The tide was rushing in stronger, it was almost like shooting a rapids.|
|A pet friendly place|
|Ahoy there! What ship and wither bound?|
Shamus and D'Anyil were enjoying their cruise, and I was out and about with my camera while swimming, so got a couple of good shots of the fun.
|Barbequed SPAM and Nongshim Ramen|
Darn this is good!
That sky is just beautiful tonight. It's a treat to be here with Caroline and her son, and I'm just soaking it in.
|Sunset over Linwood Harbour Nova Scotia|
As seen from Hyclass Campground
tent site #6
|It's time to crack them open.|
|And it's all but done|
This was our last night in the campground. Tomorrow would be breakfast, pack up and heading for the ferry while the boys headed back to Taco Bell in Truro before heading back to the island. We burnt the fire until the last stick of wood, then headed off for bed.
Day 9 - 24 Aug - Linwood NS to Charlottetown PEDrive 196 km, 3 hours, 29 minutes
|Linwood NS to Charlottetown PE|
Drive 196 km, 3 hours, 29 minutes
|A photographer gets labeled, with words like "Lazy" and "Good for nothing"|
I prefer to think of myself of a historian, a chronicaller, a story teller
Yep, Lazy fits too.
We had to use up the last of the meat and eggs for breakfast, so it was a bit of a smorgasbord as we emptied the cooler and flushed the ice water out. We ate breakfast in a similar manner, then waited for the hot equipment to cool so I could wash it out with suds and water followed up with paper towel.
|I think this is the canvas dance.|
Watching them fold the tent immediately reminded me of the my time in the army working at base supply CFP Borden with Beau Wilson. Folding and packing, unpacking, folding canvas that the reserves borrow from stores every year for their summer training camps. Mounds of it! Oceans of it! Beau and I had climbed and sailed it all, do that canvas dance. Hahaha.
We wished them well, Caroline would be back in the driveway with Shamus later that afternoon.
|Linwood Harbour Nova Scotia|
As seen from NS Route 4
The Sunrise Trail
|Could that be a Honda Shadow?|
|Do I get my phone call? |
"Ron! I took one for the team!"
The highway was under construction, and we hit a merge lane that wasn't marked as they'd taken down or covered over the signs during realignment, and the cars got confused about the merge up ahead, and one drive was poised to merge too early, so Caroline sped up to make room, and bam! The officer kindly lowered the ticket at the scene, but now Caroline had "Performance Award" all of her very own, and it was the topic of conversation for muce of the following week. Who am I trying to kid?! Ask her about riding faster than the speed limit!
|Grohmann Knives factory outlet|
Pictou Nova Scotia
Caroline was looking for a place to eat on trip advisor and came up with a Syrian food shop that had a strange address, that was in a parking lot reached from Caladh Avenue.
|Alladin Syrian Canadian Restaurant|
Lane 4... and onto the ferry where we opted to sit on the deck outside and enjoy the shade.
|Waiting in line to be vetted|
|Yes, I'm this much fun to be with.|
Caroline reminded me of lunch, so we pulled over into the parking lot of the Wood Islands Visitor information center where we coopted an entire picnic table to stuff ourselves.
Caroline and I parted ways in Charlottetown, I to my fortress of solitude and her to home with Shamus.
Tomorrow was our down day, rest, relaxation and laundry, then we head over to New Brunswick the day after. Hooray! See you then!
Day 10 - 25 Aug - R&R plus laundry day
|Oil change! New rear tire!|
Mission accomplished, plus I got some hideously expensive chain wax! In fact, I now buy it online because I cannot afford the Honda mark up on Maxima chain wax.
Part 2 - New Brunswick!!!
Day 11 - 26 Aug - Charlottetown PE to Kingston NB
|Charlottetown PE to Kingston NB|
Drive 300 km, 3 hours, 33 minutes
I did take a wee break for a picture in Murray Corner New Brunswick, right on the 955
As seen from NS 955
Murray Corner New Brunswick
|Mary hosted a lovely wee breakfast|
|Carl's well decorated wood shop|
An older gentleman was waiting for his wife in the car next to me, and we began chatting about who and where, and it turns out I'd run into my cousin Robert Scribner, the day before his 80th birthday! It's a small world, but when you hare in New Brunswick in Hampton, you are only 30 kilometres from where James and five brothers - namely Benjamin, Isaiah, Luke, Hezekiah and Johnston Kierstead - came to St. John, New Brunswick in 1783 as United Empire Loyalists and settled in this area. My ancestor Benjamin and his wife Jemima have a grave marker on Kierstead Mountain to the Northeast of us.
|My cousin Robert S.|
Saint John River
As seen from NB 850
|Belleisle Bay (and the Kingston Creek)|
Saint Johns River
New Brunswick as seen from NB 850
|Ken and Sue|
I had dreams of meeting up with my New Brunswick cousins Gillian and Becca, but it appeared that Gillian might be in Hawaii and Becca was now living in Fredericton with her boyfriend as the Algonquin Resort hotel in Saint Andrews New Brunswick had reduced staff and laid her off due to COVID. I knew what that felt like.
|Asiago Black Pepper Bread|
|Cheddar and Everything spice bread|
|Not only can you cook your dinner on it, it heats the house and your shower|
Day 12 - 27 Aug - Kingston NB to Saint Stephen NB
|Kingston NB to Saint Stephen NB|
|Near the |
West Branch Musquash River
Musquash New Brunswick
|Right on NB 790|
|Panoramic view of Cranberry Head|
as seen from Cranberry Head Road
|Caroline at Cranberry Head|
|I can now see the need for extra lighting on a bright day. **Sigh|
|Moose Creek as seen from NB 790|
I love this spot. I was stopping to take a picture here last year when I spotted a moose and her calf further up the creek and got some video and pictures of them. Whoda thunk it!? Moose at moose creek! Nothing so exciting today, so we kept keeping on. We didn't even stop at Lepreau Falls or Dipper Harbour this run, and I stopped taking pictures until we hit Saint Andrews itself.
We took the 175 as far was possible, which follows the coast, and iirc it's the old Trans Canada Highway that got divorced when they built the new freeway. The speeds increased, but the scenery changed as you no longer went through the smaller villages and hamlets that lined the road. We headed south off of Route 1 towards Saint Andrews and got into the town proper.
|The Algonquin Resort|
A look into the Railroad
on the Eastern Seaboard
|It's not "pay at the pump".|
Saint Andrews New Brunswick
|Passamaquoddy Bay and Navy Island|
Saint Andrews New Brunswick
In 1777 the island took on a new identity as Loyalists from the United States moved north to escape the American Revolutionary War and settled what is now Saint Andrews in 1783. "Ministers Island" is named for Parson Andrews who began a ministry in the area after settling on the island in 1790.~"Minister's Island, https://www.ministersisland.net/."
In 1791, the island was sold to the Town's minister, the Reverend Samuel Andrews, for whom the island was later named. Though Andrews built a small stone cottage on the island, still standing today, by 1798 he had put the property up for sale once again. There were, however, apparently no takers, as the island was still in his possession upon his death in 1818. The land was passed on to his son Elisha Andrews, St. Andrew's Sheriff, then to Elisha's son Marshall, and finally to Marshall's son Edwin. Edwin and Marshall Andrews lived on the island until 1891, at which point it was sold to Sir William Van Horne ~https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ministers_Island
Steeped in colonial era history, then 100 years later, a sought after vacation destination, and today much the same, A resort town.
|The gravel bar at low tide|
as seen from Bar Road
As we headed East on Bar Road back out to the main road, I spotted some deer running across a mowed lawn. Anytime I see deer close to the road I go into high alert having met one by accident back in 2007 on the highway. Thankfully these kept to the greener side, and I was able to admire their fleetness of foot.
|Bambino and mother|
|More than just one!|
We made good time staying on NB 170 and arrived in Saint Stephen although Caroline had to wait by the roadside while I snapped a couple of pictures of the rapids at Dennis Stream just off the 170.
|That bridge was made in 1949|
One of the oldest I've seen these days
|The Ganong warehouse on Chocolate Road|
Saint Stephen New Brunswick
It was near supper time, and Caroline and I were tired. I needed a coffee, and a bit of something, and that seduced Caroline into ordering a meal with me, so we enjoyed our second meal in Carman's Diner since last year's trip to Ontario, but I was in much better spirits as the clutch cable on my bike was still in one piece as opposed to last year when I'd limped in here to dry out and destress. This evening was a step forward for sure!
|The lovely Caroline, patiently waiting for her coffee|
|Hot Roast beast with fries and gravy|
That was a good meal. The only part I don't understand is the boiled peas... It turns out there is a good answer for that in history as well. Dried peas keep well. Terribly well. Keep them dry, keep them vermin free, and they last forever. Toss them in water to soak, boil them next day and serve. Carrots need a sand bin in the root cellar, but peas can be stacked in bags, buckets and barrels. Lol. I'm not a huge fan of boiled peas unless they are fresh.
I had honestly thought that we would have been in the McAdam area for camping today, but that didn't happen, and Caroline found us a site just down the road at Oak Bay Campground, as we'd ridden right past it, and we were just at that time when all we wanted to do was call it a day and relax a bit. Back up the road was a gas station and convenience store, the Red Rooster where we bought some water and snacks, then we trundled off down the road to the campground to register for the night. Midweek camping rocks, and we had our pick of sites to choose, and I'd asked the girl which site she would recommend for a sunset and she said it would be 11 most likely, platforms right near the water.
|Oak Bay with Spoon Island in the distance|
Looking South-East from the campground
Ah well, once the family and their gear was gone, the sun began to fade, the spit became a bar, then partly submerged, changing the landscape more than I had expected.
|Sunset over Oak Bay and Spoon Island|
Saint Stephen New Brunswick
And the final logs are on, and it's dying down now.
Fire takes forever to burn down when you are watching and hoping for it. Hahaha.
Day 13 - 28 Aug - Saint Stephen NB to Fredericton NB
|Saint Stephen NB to Fredericton NB|
|Dawn over Oak Bay|
|0700 Spoon Island on Oak Bay|
|Jenga with bathrooms|
|And they work on this every year or so it seems, section by section|
NB 630 north towards McAdam NB
McAdam station is a former railway station that dominates the village of McAdam, New Brunswick, Canada. The station is the largest passenger station in the province but since the December 17, 1994, abandonment of Via Rail's Atlantic passenger train, it no longer sees rail service and is partially used as a museum.
|The station as seen from the road.|
|It was easy to see the timber and ore flowing through this junction, |
at least seen in my mind's eye
|Looking North East up the track|
|The Gun Dealer|
McAdam New Brunswick
I can't recall what Caroline walked out with, but I was thankful it was not the Realtree Camo with the pink Browning buck stamped on the front. lol.
|Grilled Cheese n Ham sandwiches!|
|Darn it, copyright infringement.|
Ah well, she's my lunch super hero. This is one of my favourite meals of the trip, and the most memorable certainly. I find it funny the emphasis that gets put on some memories well after the fact.
|NB 103, under construction.|
Before the bridge, the only way to cross the Saint John River was by ferry. Plans and specifications of the bridge began in 1898 and the bridge was constructed in 1901 by the Hartland Bridge Company. On May 13, 1901, Dr. Estey was the first person to cross the bridge before its scheduled opening, because he had to respond to an emergency call. Workers placed planks on the bridge so he could drive across the bridge. It was finally inaugurated by Justice McKeowan on July 4, 1901 before a crowd of 2,000 people. It was funded by tolls until it was purchased by the provincial government on May 1, 1906. The bridge was not originally built covered.
|"The World's Largest Axe. This giant axe symbolizes the importance of the forest industry, past, present and future, to the Town of Nackawic and the Province of New Brunswick. 1991."|
|Looking Soouth along the Saint John river from NB 105|
Caroline preferred the other side of the road, so we carried our partially erected tents over (only after she'd cleared it with the office) and set about getting our tents pitched and supper started.
You can just see my GSI Outdoors "spice rack". Small double ended containers for salt and pepper, and four other spices or herbs of your choice. I selected some cumin to go with the salt and peppered steak for tonight, and sprinkled a bit of garlic powder on the bread, melted a part the stick of butter we had purchased into the frying pan, and got things going.
|Deconstructed steak sandwich|
|Captain Ron! |
Martin Short is playing the part of my brother Rich
Dad fed us and we climbed into the tent, all of us on a foam mattress that we were used to seeing in the van, in those old cotton flannel sleeping bags. You know the ones. Late that night it started to rain, the water dripped through some holes in the ceiling, but that wasn't the worst of it, water bouncing off of your nose at midnight, no sir! The water was rolling downhill, and as the rain progressed, it flowed under the walls and skirt of the tent right into my sleeping bag where I lay half on and half off the foam. Then I could feel it seeping up through the foam into the sleeping bag, soaking my underwear then on my skin. Cold water. Sleep was impossible and I will never forget that night, as one of the worst I've ever spent camping in my life. When I smell mildewed canvas I am instantly transported through time and space back into that young Captain Ron thinking I'd peed my bed in a dream. lol. Thankfully I also remember that rite of passage when I left the role of Mate and became Master and Captain of the rowboat.
Day 14 - 29 Aug - Fredericton NB to Charlottetown PE
|Fredericton NB to Charlottetown PE|
I wasn't the only one looking for breakfast this morning...
|Eight years of abuse later...|
|Split tent pole|
NB 105 needs some TLC at some point. You find yourself riding on patches on top of patches on top of the original asphalt. Lol. Keep the suspension set to soft and compliant. Caroline would let out an "Ooofff!" every one in awhile to let me know that a bump was coming up.
|New Brunswick Route 105|
Luckily my cousin Becca is a friend to all and was interested in meeting the girl who voluntarily followed me around. I think she wanted to know if Caroline was entertained, or part of the entertainment. I like to think a bit of both. She's my Sideshow Bob. Highly intelligent and I'm slightly beneath her usual high standards, but I pay well. (And the food is first class!)
|The smile! The helmet can't contain it! |
We only had another 3 hours and 40 minutes to go if we were taking the super slab, but that's super boring and Caroline wanted to stay off the highway if possible, so we opted to stay on NB 105 and head South East until we hit NB 10 that would take us up and over Kierstead Mountain. :)
|NB 10 South West I think|
|Gasthof Old Bavarian Restaurant|
1130 Knightville Road
Near Sussex New Brunswick
Right at the foot is the Adolf Butcher shop that make many of the wurst that will end up on your plate.
|That is Erdinger Weissbier|
Tastes just the same here or in the brauhaus that I toured
I never would have thought this place existed, and am so glad that I ate here.
Thanks for following along with us on this one. Maybe when COVID isn't a thing anymore we can expand our horizons and go a bit further, but for now, I really enjoyed the experience.